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The Gaijin Ghost

A photoblog, where you become the phantom foreigner, exploring travel destinations in Japan and beyond.
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Oppenheimer's Most Effective Scene Puts Kyoto in the Room

December 21, 2023

In Oppenheimer, the pen is mightier than the bomb, even in the context of a three-hour biopic about the bomb’s father. Christopher Nolan’s summer movie adaptation of the Pulitzer Prize-winning book, American Prometheus: The Triumph and Tragedy of J. Robert Oppenheimer, is finally available to rent in the U.S. as of this week. Yet the movie’s single most effective scene, emotionally if not dramatically, hinges on the stroke of a pen and the mention of another country, where Oppenheimer won’t receive a theatrical release until 2024.

In this scene, Japan’s presence — felt but not seen in a room full of Irish and American actors — hints at a different kind of third act that could have developed if Nolan had chosen to open up the narrative to other perspectives. In an interview with Total Film earlier this year, he addressed Oppenheimer’s point-of-view, saying, “I wrote the script in the first person,” and, “The colour scenes are subjective; the black-and-white scenes are objective.” However, it ultimately feels like the black-and-white scenes just offer a second subjective viewpoint from another character.

For much of its runtime, Oppenheimer is riveting, but toward the end, as it gets caught up in courtroom drama and petty personal vendettas, it starts to feel like it’s so limited in its cultural perspective as to be almost myopic. Maybe that’s the point since it’s all about a man with supreme tunnel vision. As a theoretical physicist, Oppenheimer (Cillian Murphy) is focused so deeply on his scientific work that, until it gets away from him, he neglects to fully consider the collateral damage it might cause, or the damage he might cause in his relationships.

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The Michelin Files: A Yakitori and Curry Shop Starter Pack

December 11, 2023

A new Michelin Guide for Tokyo in 2024 dropped last week, just in time for me to wrap things up here with “The Michelin Files.” This will be my last installment for the time being, but it’s focused on two of my favorite Japanese foods, yakitori and curry. Due to its proximity to a certain yakitori restaurant, I’ll also circle back to where I started with this series — sushi — and talk about one famous restaurant in town that might be impossible for anyone but a head of state to book.

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Photo Highlights: Two Autumn Leaf Light-Ups

December 4, 2023

To see the fall colors in Tokyo this year, I wanted to do something a little different. Despite its suggestive name, Shinjuku Gyoen’s “Naked Autumn Night Garden” involved no nudity, but rather, light displays from the digital art collective Naked Inc. I caught the event on November 30 before it ended last night. Since it didn’t start until 6 p.m., it gave me time to head down the Oedo Line to Aoyama-Itchome Station first and see the trees along Meiji Jingu Gaien’s famous Ginkgo Avenue illuminated. The light-up there, which also ended last night, started at 4:30, right around sundown. It was free, whereas the Shinjuku Gyoen event cost ¥2,200.

For this outing, I was partially inspired by our trip to Kyoto last fall when we saw a beautiful illumination at Toji Temple one night. It made me realize that, although I had been to many of Tokyo’s most famous spots for fall color viewing already, I’d mostly seen them during the day. The autumn leaves are usually at their peak here around late November to early December.

At Shinjuku Gyoen, you could see the maple trees and London plane trees lit up, but you had to walk back to the Okido Gate, which is a bit of a hike coming from Shinjuku Station. As you can see in these 25 pictures, however, it was a nice break from Shinjuku’s neon and a nice seasonal highlight, even though we’re already into December now and the overlapping season for holiday light-ups.

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Tocho on Thanksgiving (with Memories of New York)

November 24, 2023

Yesterday, while people in the U.S. were eating turkey and giving thanks, I took a trip to Tocho, a.k.a. the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, to get a vaccine booster. It was my first time doing that at Tocho, which has a couple of free observatories up in its twin towers. I had been to both observatories several times already, and I was surprised when they ushered me onto the elevator to see that it was going up to the north observatory on the 45th floor. They’re now using that observatory as a vaccination site, which may be why the line for the south one was so long, since it’s currently handling twice the number of sightseers.

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The Michelin Files: The Tokyo Pizza Restaurant That Ranks Among the World's Best

November 20, 2023

Every year, the 50 Top Pizza World list recognizes the best Neapolitan-style pizza inside and outside Italy. Though a pizzeria in Naples naturally tops the 2023 list, there are also a couple of Tokyo restaurants on there — one of which, The Pizza Bar on 38th, climbed the rankings from #16 to #4 this year.

Located on the top floor of the Mandarin Oriental hotel in Nihonbashi, The Pizza Bar on 38th is also listed as a Bib Gourmand selection in the Michelin Guide (though prices are more in the one-or-two-star range). Normally, the restaurant, run by Rome-born Chef Daniele Cason, can only accommodate eight guests around its marble-top counter. However, when we ate there for Sunday brunch last month, it had expanded beyond this setup. The counter was closed off and they had everyone seated in the adjacent dining room of the hotel’s other Italian restaurant, K’shiki.

This may have been because The Pizza Bar on 38th was temporarily serving a special combined menu with Tokuyoshi, the namesake of Chef Yoji Tokuyoshi, who runs Alter Ego, another one-star Michelin restaurant in Central Tokyo. For three days in October, this limited-time omakase (chef-curated) tasting menu allowed guests to dine on the cuisine of two Michelin chefs for the price of one.

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Inside the Toy Story Hotel at Tokyo Disney Resort

November 16, 2023

Unlike other hotels at Tokyo Disney Resort, which have lobbies and restaurants that the general public can access, the new Toy Story Hotel is only open to guests with a room reservation. Its entrance is blocked off by a parking garage (the “RC Racer Garage”), so you can’t even really see the front of the hotel from the sidewalk. The only real photo op for non-guests is the sign out front, which is visible from across the street at Bayside Station, one of four stops on the resort’s monorail loop. 

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Photo Highlight: Imperial Palace Moat, Elevated View

November 11, 2023

Until this month, I had never been somewhere with a good elevated view of the moat surrounding the Imperial Palace. The 35th floor of the Marunouchi Building does yield this view, but what you’re seeing there is more the edge of the palace grounds and Kokyo Gaien National Garden.

For its part, Tokyo Midtown Hibiya also rises 35 floors above ground, but most visitors will only ever see the shopping and dining part of the building, which tops out in a 7th-floor terrace. From there and the windows in the lobby of Toho Cinemas Hibiya, you can see the same edge of the palace from the opposite side, though it’s not quite high enough to give a real bird’s-eye view looking down on it.

It wasn’t until I took a different elevator and ventured up onto the 9th floor of the office part of the building that I beheld this view of the palace moat. I was there to pick up my press pass on the final day of the Tokyo International Film Festival, where I screened the closing film, Godzilla Minus One. I filed my review later that night. The US-based editor who approved my pitch happened to be honeymooning in Japan the same week, which just goes to show that the UK isn’t the only place where this country is trending for travel.

Ringu Cabin Windows Glowing America Camp Village Okutama Tokyo

From Amityville to Ringu: The Evil Eyes of Three Houses and One Cabin

November 4, 2023

Halloween is over, but if you’re a cinephile (or dark tourist?) looking to see the house from The Amityville Horror in real life, there are three choices. All of them come with a dose of mundane reality.

I spend a lot of time searching for information on travel locations online, and I’ll often come across a listicle or some other form of clickbait content peddling outdated info. Sometimes, they immediately fail the smell taste. Other times, they’ll have me chasing a lead that turns out to be a dead-end and a waste of time. I hate it when that happens; it’s counterproductive. So, to save the interweb the trouble of going off on a wild goose chase like I did, I’m going to turn it around here and tell the real story of The Amityville Horror houses as they look today, based on some legitimate sources that I found as I was doing my homework on the setting of High Hopes.

Rather than bury the lede any further, I’ll just say that the three houses associated with The Amityville Horror look nothing like they did in the movies or any old black-and-white photo you may have seen from the 1970s. This is a case where the sign in front of the house should really read, “Hopes Dashed.” As a consolation prize, however, horror fans can do what I did and spend the night in the cabin from Ringu, which almost looks more Amityville than the actual Amityville houses do now.

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Photo Highlight: Shibuya Halloween Crackdown

October 29, 2023

In the wake of last October’s fatal crowd crush in Seoul, South Korea, city officials in Shibuya, Tokyo, have let it be known this year that the Halloween street party is over. In years past, the area around Shibuya Crossing would overflow with a crowd so thick that it could leave you shoulder-to-shoulder with costumed people, swaying back and forth as if in a game of tug-of-war. That’s what happened to me, anyway, when I first wandered into the crowd back in 2015. A serious bottleneck occurred on the sidewalk between the Q-Front building (pictured above) and the subway exit outside it. Imagine the feeling of being almost knocked off your feet and trampled in a slow-motion stampede.

Considering that, it’s understandable why Shibuya would want to keep itself from becoming a danger zone like Seoul’s Itaewon neighborhood last year. During the day, you can still see the occasional guy dressed like Spider-Man hanging around the crossing. However, signs like the one above are currently up all around Hachiko Square, walling off the statue of the titular dog completely. Security personnel nudge people along to keep them from loitering or leaning on the signs, some of which trumpet the message, “You can't see Hachiko from Saturday, October 28, to Wednesday morning, November 1.”

On a separate but perhaps not entirely unrelated note, the popular Tsutaya and Starbucks in Q-Front, with their windows overlooking the crossing, are also due to close on Halloween for an extended renovation period lasting into 2024.

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The Michelin Files: A Ramen and Gyoza Shop Starter Pack

October 25, 2023

Tokyo has more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other city in the world. The current count is 200, and when you factor in other Bib Gourmand, or value-type, restaurants, that brings the total number with Michelin recognition up to 422. No wonder Anthony Bourdain once said, “If I had to eat only in one city for the rest of my life, Tokyo would be it.”

As its name implies, “The Michelin Files” is a series where I’m documenting my experiences with some of those Tokyo restaurants that have been featured in the Michelin Guide. I can’t claim to have my finger on the pulse of the city’s culinary scene, but I’ve dined at a growing list of featured restaurants, and I’m always looking to broaden my horizons more.

In the last edition, Tokyo’s only three-star Michelin sushi restaurant was up for discussion. This time, we’re going to the opposite end of the price spectrum to look at a mix of five ramen and gyoza shops, which will get you fed without breaking the bank. Three are from the 2023 guide, but two are also from the 2016 guide, when a ramen shop received a Michelin star for the first time anywhere.

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